Nature Coast Anglers
 A Salt Water Fishing Club based out of Citrus County, Florida  

Craftsman's Corner


Pinfish Trap Build by Ted Babcock

I bought a pinfish trap at Ed’s tackle that cost me 40 bucks, wanted another but didn’t want to spend 40 more, so I decided to build my own.

Here is the cost break down.

1 roll of 13 gauge 30in W X10ft L 1/2in X 1in gal. Welded wire fencing bought at Rural King $18. (enough for 2 traps)

100 Cable ties 8in L rural King  $4

3 SS hooks bought at Home Depot $2

That’s it, It also requires 1 ball bungee which I already had, tin snips and needle nose pliers. ( Less than 15
dollars total)

Pieces all cut out. 1@ 18 X 48, 2@ 11 X 13, 2@ 4 X 15, and 2 tees 3 X 3. Save what is left to make an access door. 

Bend and attach tee to 4 X 15in piece as shown. Remember each grid in wire is  ½ X 1 in.


Make a cut out 3 X 5 in each end piece 2” in and 1” up. Attach as shown. Make them both the same.



Now bend the body with sides at 11in. top and bottom at 13in. I used a carpenters square and clamps to make a cleaner bend.



Zip tie the pieces together every 2 ½ to 3 in. leaving the body seam on the bottom. One little trick is to bend all 4 corners of the ends in slightly to make assemble a little easier.



Take what you have left over and make an access door. Bend one end and one side down  ½ to 1 in. Now cut an access hole in a top corner, attach bungee as shown and you’re done. Total time about 3 hours. 



Finished



Dan Washburn added a panoramic mirror his center console.

Dan Washburn came up with a mod for his 19' Mako that assists with rear vision when boating. The 11.75" Panoramic Rearview Clip-On Mirror is attached to the windshield frame on Don’s center console using a PVC bracket that Don made. The bracket is secured with 2 Stainless steel hose clamps to the frame. The mirror is then attached to the bracket with its two spring loaded clips. A simple and very effective solution.








My Grouper Lure Project for Trolling


Lures are expensive and X-Raps are especially so. I started looking for an alternative and found many on the web by "GOOGLE-ING" UNPAINTED LURES. 
I found a package of 10 for $12 :-) from a vendor in China.
This is what you get. Completely sealed, 4 rattle chambers, molded features, and a solid stainless steel wire for the terminal end and treble hook connections, a diving lip angled for 20'.


10  for $12. That's a $25 XRap at the bottom.


Used Aluminum tape (HVAC Tape from Home Depot) on the sides. Smoothed with a rubber square to emboss

the molded scale features to come through. Trim with xacto knife.


Stick on some eyes and attach treble hooks.


Here are two that got battle tested. If they get to chewed up, just peel off the tape and reapply new foil.


So your probably asking "Do they work"?...........Oh Yea!

Here's Kathy

I got one too!




Bob Halstead's Project for His Trolling Motor

I recently had some work done on my boat to make it more manageable when I am alone.

Picture 236 is a mount I had made for a transom mounted trolling motor. With this set up I can control the trolling motor without moving from the seat.

Picture 233
is a bracket I had made when I had the steering console and seat moved to the center of the boat.


The controls were a real reach on the side of the gunnels, so this puts them close at hand. I can also still rotate the seat to run the trolling motor. Here's how they were mounted.



The gentlemen who did the work is Boyd Hickman 352-228-0504, in Homosassa. I can say he is very, very reasonable and I feel does excellent work. He used to work for Proline and does fiberglass work, cleaning, waxing, etc.

Bob Halstead


Steve Lasko's Kayak Trailer Project for his Prius V


Trailer Kit             Harbor Freight, $199.99. Got it with coupon and paid $150.00

Tongue  Ext        3”x3”x7’ Galvanized, Standard Tubing with 45 degree cut on trailer end $65.00
Plywood              4’x8’x ½”nominal sheet pressure treated
Overall length    11 ft.
Tongue length   7 ft. from front of trailer
Bed                        40”x49”
Weight, est.       165# without kayak(s)

1.      Assemble trailer kit
2.     Attach tongue extension
3.   Cut plywood to 40”x49” and attach to trailer using 5/16”x1½” carriage bolts  
4.   After installing wiring, drill & rivet grounding wires at each light and for vehicle plug (grounding from factory did not work well due to heavy coating of paint)

I’ve got around 16 part time hours invested in the project. I’ve been working with manufacturer (in China! Sorry) to get the paint spec’s for touch-up on the tongue. 

Single kayak should be easy to attach with a couple of straps. When I get a second kayak will use car-top carriers attached to trailer such that they will be easy to remove when trailer is to be used as a utility trailer. Keep in mind that (for me and my Prius V) there should be three feet of clearance between the kayak and the vehicle to allow for maneuvering.




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